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Critic Score
86/100
2019 Mâcon Chardonnay Clos de la Crochette, Héritiers du Comte Lafon Magnum Dry | White | Still | 13%

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). This has beautiful tension and energy, it comes as little surprise this spot has been a favourite for winegrowers through the centuries.

Ready: 2021 - 2028
Critic Score
91/100
2020 Mâcon Chardonnay Clos de la Crochette, Héritiers du Comte Lafon Magnum Dry | White | Still | 12.5%

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). The energy and tension of the 2020 emphatically demonstrates why this has been a favourite spot with winegrowers through the centuries.

Ready: 2022 - 2029
2019 Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine sur lie, Grand Mouton, Louis Métaireau Magnum Dry | White | Still

This is the flagship wine of the estate, and offers the best of Muscadet: pale lemon yellow, a little citrus and blossom on the nose, an elegant, defined length, with some savoury structure from lees ageing bringing it all together. This is an absolutely charming Muscadet. In 2019 it has an effortless freshness, and poised balance.

Ready: 2021 - 2026
N/V Brut Réserve, Taittinger Magnum Dry | White | Sparkling

Taittinger's Brut Reserve is always a benchmark, and this is just gorgeous. So much freshness and purity on the palate, with brioche notes and a long, seashell infused finish. Brilliant.

Drink to: 2031
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N/V Collection 241, Louis Roederer (Base Vintage 2016) (Gift Boxed) Magnum Dry | White | Sparkling | 12%

Brut Premier is dead, long live Collection! The first major release of the new Collection - 242 - is based on the 2017 harvest, but in fact, the house did make a Collection wine the year before, and decided to bottle the wine exclusively in magnums. The Roederer house dates back to 1776, and the name pays homage to the 241st harvest since then. Its arrival marks the end of the line of the Brut Premier cuvée. It was an idea that started in 2002, deep in the Roederer cellars, that has finally been realised by master winemaker Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon. He wanted to make a multi-vintage wine that captured the essence of the Roederer style, and differentiated the nuance of the vintages in the blend. In 2012 he started a perpetual reserve, with young vine fruit from the biodynamic parcels usually dedicated to the production of Cristal. The heart of the 241 blend comes from the 2016 harvest, 10% from reserve wines (spanning 2009 to 2015), and 34% from the perpetual reserve. It’s only a small step up in price on the Brut Premier, but we are convinced it is a huge leap up in quality and style.

Ready: 2021 - 2026
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2016 Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru La Genelotte, Domaine Comtesse Bernard de Cherisey Magnum Dry | White | Still | 13%

La Genelotte is a monopole of Laurent’s, to the north of Blagny itself and high on the hill above Meursault. Incredibly mineral and structured, this is quite lovely. There’s explosive, juicy fruit, real drive and a satisfyingly clean finish. It’s nervy and young, but very impressive.

Ready: 2018 - 2024
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2020 Y de Château d'Yquem, Bordeaux Double Magnum Dry | White | Still

The dry white from Yquem, the 2020 is gorgeous. Pithy and savoury, with loads of tension and a long, mineral finish. This is just so drinkable - and it looks stunning, too.

Ready: 2022 - 2030
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